Orange, fennel and sage pork ragù with tagliatelle

Heat a wide, deep frying pan or casserole over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. Season the pork with the ½ tsp salt and black pepper, then brown it in two batches, allowing approximately 6–8 minutes per batch. Spread it out and leave it undisturbed initially to develop golden patches, then turn and break it into small, irregular pieces. Transfer to a bowl.

Leave about 1 tbsp fat in the pan, spooning away any excess. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the onion. Cook for 15–20 minutes, stirring regularly, until very soft and lightly golden. Add a small splash of water if it starts catching.

Stir in the garlic, crushed fennel seeds, chopped sage and chilli flakes. Cook gently for 1 minute, stirring, until fragrant.

Return the pork and its juices to the pan. Pour in the milk and simmer gently for 3–5 minutes, until most of the liquid has reduced. Add the white wine, scraping up the browned residue from the bottom. Bubble for another 4–6 minutes, until the wine has substantially reduced.

Add the stock, orange juice and bay leaf. Bring to a gentle simmer, then partially cover and cook over low heat for 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add a splash of stock or water whenever it starts looking dry. Stir in half the orange zest during the final 10 minutes. If the sauce looks watery, finish simmering uncovered; it should become concentrated but remain moist.

Towards the end of the simmering time, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the tagliatelle until about 1–2 minutes short of the packet cooking time. Reserve at least 300ml pasta water before draining.

Remove the bay leaf. Add the tagliatelle to the ragù with approximately 50ml pasta water. Toss over medium heat for 1–2 minutes, until the pasta is cooked and coated, adding more pasta water in small splashes as needed.

Take the pan off the heat. Add the butter, then gradually toss in the Parmesan, followed by the remaining orange zest and the lime zest. Loosen with another splash of pasta water if necessary: the sauce should look glossy and cling to the ribbons. Taste and adjust the salt and pepper, then serve immediately in warm bowls with extra Parmesan.